Fun around every corner

This garden has a special place in my memory. I visited it just hours before I was due to go to be induced (at 42 weeks pregnant) with my first child. In an admittedly slightly bonkers manner, I huffed and puffed my way right to the furthest reaches of the garden, determined to start my labour. My first feeble contractions began at the Gothic Tower, by the Turkish tent I was convinced the baby was coming and by the car park relief had given way to panic. Needless to say, I was still only 1cm dilated on arrival in dramatic fever pitch, at the hospital. Not one to be put off, I did the same walk twenty months later in an attempt to induce child number two. Sadly, my labours were to be induced by doctors rather than inspired horticultural design, but I still think of Painshill’s Elysian Plain with a faint chuckle of after-the-event wisdom.

I’ve been back many times, drawn by the quirky combination of this cross between a garden and a museum. This is an outdoor trail through the whimsical imagination of an eighteenth century man who tried to create a living work of art. Painshill’s imaginative landscape was created in the mid eighteenth century by Charles Hamilton who, inspired by his European jaunts, was determined to create one of the loveliest visions of European culture, here in Surrey. The garden takes you on a tour of fantastical follies, placed to arouse the sensibilities of the eighteenth century well-to-do, but which work equally well at eliciting whoops of joys from a three year old, or providing a welcome chance to stop and stare for a tired mummy with a buggy.
You can amble at will or follow the magical signposted ‘Historic Route’ which takes you from the Visitor Centre (toilets and baby changing a plenty) round each of the follies. This route is a veritable treasure hunt of delights. I think that one of the problems with attempting to enthuse young minds with the outdoors is the flitting attention span of a flea that is the toddler brain. This is where Painshill comes into its own.  The Gothic Temple at the start of the walk offers a gorgeous view over the park, then you can wander down to the ruined abbey. Go on to hop over the Chinese Bridge and if you visit at the weekend don’t miss out on the grotto. This is fairy-like with its glistening, jewel like walls and my little girls just love it. At Christmas they have Santa here and it’s wonderful! Amble across the causeway and spot the wildlife and then choose whether to take the short cut back for coffee in the café or to do the full walk. I’d always do the full walk as there’s still plenty to see, with a waterwheel, Hermitage, the Gothic Tower and then the jolly Turkish Tent on the route home.

At the start of your journey in the visitor centre, do pick up some of the children’s quizzes. There’s a special trail for little ones which is just lovely; the ‘Welcome to Wonderland’ Activity Trail. This gives toddlers a series of silly things to do in each of the follies, guaranteed to get them racing off to find the next one. There are also nature and bird spotting quizzes for the more cerebral tot.
Buggies aren’t a problem here. There are a few uneven patches but certainly the first two thirds of the 2.5 mile historic route is accessible with a buggy. The extra bit up to the Gothic tower might require a more sturdy three wheeler if the ground is damp. You can picnic anywhere, and there are some lovely spots for a summer picnic right around the park, although you’re asked not to picnic actually in the follies as it can spoil the experience for other visitors. There are plenty of little detours so you can explore further, and there are lots of books and maps you can pick up at the visitor centre as well as a great choice of goodies! There’s a café serving hot food which has high chairs and caters for children and there’s plenty of parking. Painshill Park is one of Surrey’s gems and as a charitable institution needs plenty of visitors, so pack up a picnic and enjoy the summer sunshine in a garden which we can, hand on heart, say is not just unique but utterly enchanting!

Painshill Landscape Gardens
Portsmouth Road, Cobham, KT11 1JE
Open daily from 10.30am. The garden closes at 6pm from March onwards (or dusk if it’s earlier). Normal admission is Adults £6.60, Children £3.85 and under 5s free. If you want to know more visit www.painshill.co.uk or call 01932 868113.